coups, cooking, and kvetching

I´m sorry. Next time there is a major upheaval in Quito, I promise to write an update sooner saying I am okay. I am not so good at this blogging thing apparently. All is calm in Quito. In fact it was calm the day after that fateful Thursday. September 30th itself was nuts though. The live coverage on TV looked like a war flick (not that I watch any).I was scared shitless watching Correa get "rescued" by the military. Uma and I just holed up at our apartment for a few days until it all blew over. Life got back to normal quite quickly.

Having a coup or a near coup is an very ordinary occurrence here- however, this was the first time there were several causalities. I think in the past dozen coups, only one foreign photographer was killed and it was because he stepped off a ledge or something. The fact that half a dozen were killed this time is certainly due to the fact that it was the police and the military sparring with machine guns. From what I gather about the president here, Correa, is that he is really "for the people", similar to Chavez in Venezuela, wanting to keep the riches and resources of the country for the people of the country. Of course he wants to censor a bit and take down the legislative branch- which is a little scary. Yet, he is passionate when he speaks and would also be quite handsome if it were not for his peculiar hair. I think I like him. It is just a matter of time until he is ousted though. Ecuadorians simply prefer coups instead of waiting for the next election cycle.

It's been almost two months now since we've arrived in Ecuador. I can't figure out if it feels longer or shorter. We are certainly comfortable, that's for sure. Our routines are down. Many of routines are new ones. Such as cooking! I have been cooking all of our meals and they have been down right tasty! Our new staples in life are chicken with rice, avocados with everything, salsa with cho-chos, Nutella, mango juice, , guava jelly, baby potatoes, and instant coffee- not all in the same meal of course. Another shocking turn of events is that I have started wearing make-up (a little)and earrings every day. I can almost hear the gasps! It's true! I think I may be becoming a lady. I am also bathing more than I have in years. That might be too much info for some of you.

School is a breeze. I don't know if its because I´ve been teaching for ten years now, or if it´s because I´ve been teaching in such demanding settings, but his job is a piece of cake. I get a lunch break EVERY DAY and at least an hour, if not two hours of planning every day. In fact, I should be planning right now! All of the other teachers seem to feel like they have no time to do anything, I just keep my mouth shut. I also think I got the nicest group f kids out of the five classes of third grade. Counting my blessing there. They are such sweeties. Their accents are so adorable and I respect their bi-lingual ability so much. I really love my class.

The hardest thing thus far that I´m dealing with is the social thing. I know this is shocking but it is true. I love all my colleagues and respect them very much, but I haven´t really made any good friends yet. I feel close to all my ladies on the bus, but I rarely, if ever, hang out with folks outside of school. This always takes much longer than one would like in a new locale. I´ve been through this same exact feeling before- moving to Portland, New York, Dominica...it just takes time to find "your people". It still sucks though.

What makes this even harder is having a young child. I realized the other day that ALL of my friends that I have post-child ,save ONE (JL), either knew and loved me before pregnancy OR is a parent themselves. You can do the math on that one.

Now, imagine this reality, but with teacher-friends. Very few of them really want to hang out with kids post-school. I know thats sounds horrible but it true. Their job is kids. They want adult time. Hell, so do I!

Anyhow, the result of all of this is that I rarely get invited to outings or weekend adventures with all of the (American single) teachers and it kinda bites. Ouch. There's a long weekend coming, and everyone is making plans and I feel kinda-sorta-really left out. I know these people like me, but they either assume I don´t want to go because of Uma or they don´t want to constant interruptions and occasional chaos that young adorable children are known to cause.

Or perhaps I´m not as likable as I like to think I am.... Of course WE all know, they are missing out on some serious cuteness and wisdom (not from me, but from my little one). Any advice on this issue will be much appreciated as I am feeling a bit like a middle schooler.

However, in my hearts of hearts I rest in the fact that whatever is mine will come to me, my true friends, my loves, etc- whatever- if it is supposed to be mine it will come if I am patient. I know I´m a pollyanna but it keeps me sane most of the time. In the meantime, I´m gonna enjoy all the wisdom and cuteness from my little love as I can. And cook and bathe and eat as much Nutella and avocados as I possibly can.

chaos in Quito

Apparently the police are striking today, upset that the president has taken away thier "special benefits" to make it more equitable for all goverment workers. I heard that they threw bottles at him and he is currently in the hospital, although they would like to see him gone for good. I am at school in Cumbaya but Quito is crazy, I hear- with tear gas bombs, looting, and many streets closed for protests. All the parents are coming to pick up their kids as all of our buses have been cancelled. I am taking Uma to a co-worker´s sister house near the school in Cumbaya until everything cools down. All this reminds me of 9-11 during my first week of teaching in Brooklyn....

a month down (almost)

It's hard to believe that we've been in Quito for nearly a month now. I think it's safe to say that we are now settled into some routines and feeling pretty damn comfortable.

The first few weeks, I had to catchup to speed as I arrived a few weeks later than all the other teacher, but now I am finally feeling ahead of the game. My third grade kids are adorable- so sweet and polite and very bright. English is a second language for them all, and although it takes plenty of patience to help them express all of their ideas, it is well worth the wait. I love their little accents, and I'm amazed at how much their little brains hold. I think I may have the nicest of the five third grade classes, and I'm feeling pretty lucky about that- no trouble makers, just a few squirmy and chatty ones. My co-workers are a bunch of wonderful women who greet each other everyday with a squeal and a kiss. I am reminded how much I respect fellow teachers here, everyone works so hard and gives so much of their heart.

Uma rides the teacher bus to school with me each day, goes to her pre-school which is spoken in English (yet her classmates all speak Spanish to one another), and then goes to her aftercare which is entirely in Spanish. She is picking up new phrases each day which practices while looking in the mirror after school. No mas! Silencio! Mis ninos!



She is also quite happy that I am letting her watch some programs on the TV in Spanish as I've convinced myself it's educational. Uma has been tickled by the familiar faces she sees everywhere as Hello Kitty, the ubiquitous Disney princesses, and Strawberry Shortcake seem to be lurking everywhere.

On the weekends we are exploring the huge megatropolis of Quito. Each weekend we have spent tons of time exploring the parks here which have the most amazing things for kids. Park Eljido has about a dozen beautifully crafted wood play structures for kids of all sizes, a zip line, bikes to rent, and little peddle cars that look like doodlebugs for kids to ride around in. Our first weekend exploring we went there both days of the weekend as it has so many fun things for Uma but also a huge artisans market and a handicrafts market where I bought 3 pre-columbian goddess figures for $22. That and tons of tropical fruit, snack, and pastry stands. Plus, one feels so safe and protected as an RV filled with machine gun armed cops sit right in the play area…




The next weekend we explored old town. It is exquisite. It's pedestrian only on Sundays, and the tiny cobblestone streets are lined with ancient looking homes with vistas of the winged virgin at every turn. There are several lively squares with music, clowns, and dancing, and dozens of ancient churches to explore. It was the first UNESCO world heritage site, so it feels like walking back centuries…except for all of the tiny sties selling cheap crap from China.



















Last weekend we took out first out of town excursion to the zoo. We had to take a cab, two buses, and another cab to get there. With my (lack of ) language skills it was amazing we made it there. The bus ride out of the city was nuts. The bus driver was passing trucks on a curvy mountain road at high speeds with oncoming traffic. As soon as you leave the city, it become desert-and the combination of high cliffs and crazy testosterone driving is not my favorite. The zoo itself was cool though- we saw our school mascot- the spectacled bear, as well as gigantic tortoises from the Galapagos. We also got to enter a dwelling with 5 owls and a sleeping sloth- it was a bit scary but very cool.






We also visited Parque Carolina which is one of the busier parks in town. It was off the hook. There were at least 4 different bands playing throughout the park- playing a huge range of genres from hip hop to punk to more traditional Ecuadorian music. We rode paddle boats, and played on tons of structures for kids including several trampolines, primate "rides", and a blow-up bounce slide.







In the center of the park there must have been over a dozen soccer fields where pick up games were in full swing. It is so refreshing to see such a wild diversity in the population in the parks- old, young, rich, poor, modern, indigenous, light, dark, african, families, couples, and clowns. I have been craving that diversity for some time now. In fact, there are certainly more people of african descent in Quito than there are in Portland by a long shot.

Ater our outings, it is such sweetness to come back to our little quiet village, on the very edge of town....

There´s more to report but I imagine I should save something for later as I have written an awful lot. Besos!

posing at school

Our apartment!!

Since I last wrote, our lives have taken a drastic turn for the the better. In fact, the day after I wrote, complaining about our living situation, we found our dream apartment. In my last post, I gave a hint of an apartment I was hoping I would love in Guapulo- I insisted that we go and see it. Meanwhile, my host family was trying to push other unsavory locations and stating "Oh, he says its VERY small" several times, I had to be very persistent.

It was the fist apartment we saw- as soon as I saw it I told the landlord that I didn't need to see any other apartment and that I absolutely loved it and wanted to move in immediately. He said I could move in that afternoon, so Oliver ( my host family's son-in-law who totally rocks) said he would drive me back to the valley, let me pack up my stuff, take me to the bank to cash my check, buy sheets and blankets, and drive me back to the apartment before 4pm (when his license plate numbers aren't allowed to drive in the city). Getting this all done in 2 hours time is no small miracle in Ecuador time. That night, I was unpacking our four bags into our own sweet place, so sublimely happy to finally have a place of our own. It's ideal that we could only bring 2 bags each on the plane, if we had any more stuff, the apartment wouldn't work. As it is, we have a place for everything and it is just perfect.

The interior is all decorated in old wood furniture, and has a rich yet rustic feel to it. The walls are stone, the floor is tile, and the windows are immense. Our view is absolutely breath taking. We are perched high on a hill, overlooking Guapulo, with a view of town scrambled below us, the tiny streets zig-zagging below. Our patio garden is filled with ancient relics, tropic plants, and an assortment of rock collections. A huge church dedicated to the Virgin of Guadelupe sits regally below us and the mountains and valley are panoramic. It is exquisite. Guapulo is known as an artistic, hippy, and indigenous neighborhood. My landlord explained to me (he speaks very good English!) that most Quitoans look down on the neighborhood because of their lack of respect for the indigenous populations. For me- it is a perfect mix. It is on the edge of the city, yet a $2 cab ride to most anywhere, clean air, close to school (our school bus picks us up at our door), and our neighborhood is filled with nooks and crannies to explore.

Our first weekend was the Guapulo annual festival which is no small affair. From Thursday night to Monday night there were loud and color festivities right outside our doorstep. We got an official invitation from the Mayor to come to the church for an event, we decided to walk down the hill to see what it was all about. After waiting around a bit, a bunch of police showed up and a little guy jumped out of a car with a huge smile, walking right towards me. I smiled (as I always do) and he patted Uma on the head and then was received by the rest of the crowd. It took me just a quick second to realize it was the mayor.

During the service, a beautiful golden retriever strolled into the magnificent church, and just hung out during the assembly- something one doesn't normally see in the states. Uma got a bit wiggly so we exited just in time to see two different parades converge at the church. I haven't yet figured out the symbology or significance (although I have asked several people) but all the kids and adults in the parades were dressed up as either clowns or in gorilla suits- there didn't seem to be any other option beside a more indigenous knit rainbow mask cowboy get- up. Kids in gorilla suits were walking all around the neighborhood, it was a bit creepy. Loud music and dancing went into the night every night- it was almost absurd how loud it was in our apartment. Sunday night, the famous "orange throwing" parade occurred when trucks wind down the alleyways, and folks throw oranges into the crowd, while packs of boys try to intercept and end up making it quite a chaotic and messy event. We scored at least a dozen oranges and have been juicing them daily for good luck. So far, so good.

Thus far, the only thing we are lacking is internet access at home. I can check email at school, but Facebook is blocked. Ay curumba! Hopefully this will change soon and I can Skype and Facebook to my heart's content soon. Next posting will include details about school and our adventures into town thus far. Much love and besos!

day five- the complaints

It's a bit odd having someone else try to find you a place to live. I love my host family, but their idea of "nice" is much different than mine. They seem dead set against me living in Quito, and not enthused about the same places that I am, and yet they are the ones setting up the appointments and who will negotiate for me. A certain portion of my experience of living with a host family for me has been one of powerlessness. I can't leave the house on my own, they don't have a car, we are miles from anywhere, there isn't much food, and I can't communicate or research getting an apartment very well. And my pillows are both lumpy and hard.

Alas- I broke down Monday and got a taxi after school to get groceries for Uma and I as it seems that they are always "going to go to the market tomorrow" and it was getting dire. It was after I laid in bed one night- starving- and tried to fall asleep as they were just beginning their dinner at 11:00pm- with a lumpy pillow. All this said, they are lovely people- truly lovable- it just sucks not being able to take care of things for yourself. (However, someone at school sent me a posting today what might be my perfect place to live today- more info on that is forthcoming hopefully.)

Coming back to school on Monday after the weekend, I had to learn to navigate the labyrinth hallways of the school all over again. It is massive. All of the classrooms in the elementary are in open courtyards- I get a whiff of the most gorgeous tropical flowers as I speed-walk by, trying to get everything organized while running to meetings. Remembering everyone's names is a real struggle too. Most everyone goes by two names- like Maria Jose, but then there are so many Maria Joses that you have to learn their third names too.

I finally got the "complete meal" at the cafeteria today and it was incredible. I got a delicious soup with some variety of yummy yellow potatoes garnished with avocado, a plate of chicken and rice, a salad with all kinds of weird things (including ham which they are CRAZY about here), a corn muffin, and a huge glass of guava juice for $2.50. That was certainly a highlight of the day.

I'm finding that although the principal and director are really on board with my particular teaching philosophy and practices, much of the staff is in another realm entirely. There are worksheets everywhere- EVERYWHERE. All of the teachers are running to the lamination office- where someone's full time job is laminating and color copying for teachers- and making bulletin boards that say cheesy things like "Everyone's a star!" or "The sky's the limit!" or something dorky like that.

I have to keep reminding myself that I was hired to teach the way I told them I taught, and not to get caught up with all of their textbooks and worksheets. Hopefully, the Ecuadorian parents will see value in inquiry and constructivism and not see my lack of worksheets as a weakness.

Another interesting thing is there are a whole fleet of "workers" at the school who stand out because they are wearing a kind of airplane command control attire. They are the ones who move things, clean things, etc. It's odd because they are equally men and women, and the women are just so beautiful. I just can't seem to figure out the class system thing here yet. Everyone seems really respectful and friendly to each other, but there is a clear distinction.

Lastly- Uma is doing wonderful. Her daycare before school begins is entirely in Spanish and I can just see her mind reeling. She has been exhausted from all of the mental processing and the altitude but is as well adjusted as I could have hoped for. Soon she will begin her Pre'K which will be in English, but most of her classmates will only really know Spanish. Then her afternoons in aftercare will be in Spanish again...it's only a matter of time before she surpasses me in- I give her a month at most. I can't wait for her to teach me!

quito!

Today my host family gave Uma and I a tour of the city. We packed seven people into a tiny vehicle and went to explore the mega-tropolis known as Quito.My host family is wonderful- they live in a beautiful house filled with windows overlooking the Cumbaya-Tumbaco valley. The view is spectacular. They are multi-generational- it is the grandparent's house we live in, along with two of their children, a son-in-law (who Uma adores), and one of their grandchildren...with other assorted children and grandchildren popping by frequently. Yesterday, on Saturday, we took it super easy and just went out for ice cream in a super fancy plaza loaded with beautiful and rich people. It was okay, but as most of you know, I like things a bit grittier. I was excited to see how the other half lives today in Quito.

The area that I am "supposed" to like, near Carolina Parque, I found to be rather dull. So many people told me it is the place to look-perhaps it was because it was Sunday and many businesses were closed, but there just wasn't much going on. The big draw seemed to be that there are 3 malls nearby and that does nothing for me. The park itself I am sure we would love, so I will give it a second look if I find a good furnished apartment. The "old town" on the other hand was fascinating and beautiful and I can't wait to explore it more, it is way too far from Cumbaya to live, but I imagine I will be going back frequently. It is like stepping back in time- tiny streets with ancient buildings, lively squares, women in traditional dress and multitudes of secret alleyways. We went to see the famous winged Virgin statue in Old Town which took my breath away. As soon as I get my own place, I will get a replica and place it at the center of my alter.

Finally, we saw Guapulo, which I had a feeling I was going to love as I read it had yoga, dance, coffee, and it was considered "hippy". Wow. It was gorgeous-windy narrow roads that hugged the mountainside with amazing artistic graffiti and murals sprinkled about and a gorgeous church. It was the first place I felt like I could truly live and be happy. That said, I should be able to live anywhere and be happy, I just want to be inspired by my surroundings. Hopefully, it will all become clear in the next week or so....